Retinol, ibikomoka kuri vitamine A, ni ibintu bizwi cyane byo kwita ku ruhu bizwiho inyungu nyinshi. Nkibibyibushye byamavuta, byinjira mubice byuruhu kugirango bigire ingaruka, cyane cyane bihindura aside retinoque, ikorana ningirangingo zuruhu kugirango itere impinduka mubinyabuzima.
Ibikorwa byingenzi byingenzi birimo gutera imbaraga za kolagen, zifasha kugabanya imirongo myiza, iminkanyari, no kugabanuka, bityo bikazamura uruhu rworoshye. Byihutisha kandi guhinduranya ingirabuzimafatizo, guhisha ingirabuzimafatizo zuruhu zapfuye kugeza imyenge idafunguye, gutunganya neza imiterere, no kugabanuka hyperpigmentation cyangwa ibibara byijimye, bikavamo ijwi ryiza, ndetse rikaba ryumvikana.
Bikunze kuboneka muri serumu, amavuta, hamwe nubuvuzi, retinol ikwiranye nubwoko bwinshi bwuruhu ariko bisaba gukoresha ubwitonzi - kubanza gukoresha bishobora gutera umwuma, umutuku, cyangwa sensibilité, bityo rero gutangira buhoro buhoro (urugero, gutangira inshuro 1-2 buri cyumweru) birasabwa. Yongera kandi izuba ryinshi, bigatuma izuba ryizuba rya buri munsi riba itegeko.
Bitewe no kudahungabana kwayo mumucyo no mwuka, akenshi bipakirwa mubintu byijimye, byumuyaga. Abantu batwite cyangwa bonsa mubisanzwe basabwa kubyirinda. Hamwe nimikoreshereze ihamye, igihe kirekire, retinol ikomeza kuba urufatiro rwo kurwanya gusaza no kuvugurura uruhu.
Inyungu za rentiol ：
- Imikorere myinshi: Nka vitamine A ikomoka kuri bioaktique, ikemura ibibazo byinshi byuruhu mubintu bimwe - gutera intungamubiri za kolagen kurwanya kurwanya gusaza, kwihutisha ihinduka rya keratinocyte kunoza imiterere, no kugenzura melanine kugirango ikosore ibara. Ubu buryo bwinshi bugabanya gukenera ibintu byinshi, byinshi-bivanze.
- Kwinjira kwa Dermal: Imiterere ya molekile yayo ituma yinjira muri epidermis ikagera kuri dermis, aho ikora kuri fibroblast (selile itanga kolagen), bigatuma ikora neza kuruta exfoliants yo murwego rwo hejuru kubuzima bwuruhu rwigihe kirekire.
- Guhindura imiterere: Bihujwe nishingiro ritandukanye (serumu, cream, amavuta) mugihe uhagaritswe na antioxydants (urugero, vitamine E) cyangwa muburyo bukomatanyije, bigatuma ushyira mubwoko butandukanye bwibicuruzwa bikenerwa kuruhu rutandukanye (urugero, serumu yoroheje kuruhu rwamavuta, amavuta akungahaye kuruhu rwumye).
- Gushyigikira ivuriro ryemejwe: Ubushakashatsi bwagutse bushigikira ubushobozi bwabwo bwo gutanga ibisubizo bigaragara (kugabanya iminkanyari, kunoza imitekerereze) hamwe no gukoresha neza, kuzamura ibicuruzwa no kwizerana kubaguzi.
- Ubushobozi bwoguhuza: Gukorana neza nibindi bikoresho nka aside ya hyaluronike (kurwanya umwuma) cyangwa niacinamide (kugirango yongere imikorere ya barrière), yemerera abayikora gukora ibicuruzwa byuzuye, biterwa nubushobozi.
Uburyo bwa Rentiol bwibikorwa ：
Uburyo bwa Retinol bwibikorwa byo kwita ku ruhu bushinze imizi mu nshingano zayo nka vitamine A ikomoka, ikubiyemo uruhererekane rw’ibinyabuzima rwibasira uruhu rwinshi:
- Kwinjira no gukora: Iyo ushyizwe hejuru, retinol yinjira muri epidermis (uruhu rwinyuma rwuruhu) hanyuma igahinduka muburyo bwa acide retinoic - uburyo bukora bwibinyabuzima - na selile yuruhu (keratinocytes na fibroblast).
- Imikoranire ya nucleaire: Acide Retinoic ihuza reseptor zihariye muri nuclei selile: reseptor acide retinoic (RARs) hamwe na retinoide X yakira (RXRs). Uku guhuza gukurura impinduka mumagambo ya gene, agenga ibikorwa bya selile.
- Kwihuta kw'ingirabuzimafatizo: Bitera umusaruro wa keratinocytes nshya (selile y'uruhu) murwego rwibanze rwa epidermis mugihe byihutisha isuka rya selile zapfuye ziva muri corneum. Ibi bigabanya ubukana, gufunga imyenge, no kunoza imiterere, biganisha ku ruhu rworoshye, rworoshye.
- Synthesis ya kolagen na elastin: Muri dermis (uruhu rwimbitse rwuruhu), retinol ikora fibroblast - selile ishinzwe kubyara kolagen (ubwoko bwa I na III) na elastine. Ibi bishimangira imiterere yuruhu, kugabanya imirongo myiza, iminkanyari, no kugabanuka.
- Amabwiriza ya Melanin: Irabuza ihererekanyabubasha rya melanin (pigment) kuva melanocytes ikajya kuri keratinocytes, igenda igabanuka buhoro buhoro hyperpigmentation, ibibara byijimye, nijwi ritaringaniye.
- Guhindura Sebum: Irashobora kugenga ibikorwa bya sebaceous gland, kugabanya umusaruro mwinshi wamavuta, ifasha kwirinda acne no kugabanya isura ya pore nini.
Iki gikorwa cyibice byinshi bituma retinol ari ikintu gikomeye cyo kurwanya gusaza, gutunganya imiterere, no gukosora amajwi, nubwo imbaraga zayo zisaba gukoresha neza, guhoraho kugirango wirinde kurakara.
Ibyiza bya Rentiol
1. Kuvugurura uruhu rwuzuye
Retinol ikemura ibibazo byinshi byuruhu icyarimwe, bigatuma ikora neza:
- Kurwanya gusaza: Bitera umusaruro wa kolagen na elastine muri dermis, kugabanya imirongo myiza, iminkanyari, no kugabanuka ushimangira uruhu rwubaka.
- Gutezimbere Imyambarire: Kwihutisha guhinduranya keratinocyte (kumena ingirangingo zuruhu zapfuye no kubyara izindi nshya), imyenge idafunze, koroshya ibibyimba bikabije, no kwerekana ubuso bworoshye, bunonosoye.
- Gukosora amajwi: Irabuza kwanduza melanin kuva mu ngirabuzimafatizo zitanga pigment (melanocytes) ikajya mu ngirabuzimafatizo z'uruhu (keratinocytes), igenda igabanuka buhoro buhoro ibibara byijimye, hyperpigmentation, n'ibimenyetso nyuma yo gutwika, bikaviramo kurushaho kuba isura.
2. Kwinjira kwa Dermal & Igikorwa kigamije
Bitandukanye nibintu byinshi byo murwego rwo hejuru, imiterere ya molekuline ya retinol ituma yinjira muri epidermis (uruhu rwinyuma rwuruhu) ikagera kuri dermis (igicucu cyimbitse), aho habaho impinduka zikomeye zubaka (urugero, synthesis ya kolagen). Iki gikorwa cyimbitse cyerekana igihe kirekire, kigaragara cyiterambere aho kuba ingaruka zigihe gito.
3.Imikorere Yagaragaye hamwe na Clinique Yinyuma
Ubushakashatsi bunini bwa siyansi nubushakashatsi bwamavuriro bwemeza imikorere yabyo. Imibare ihora yerekana ko gukoresha buri gihe (mu byumweru kugeza ku mezi) biganisha ku gutera imbere kugaragara mu buryo bworoshye bw’uruhu, ubujyakuzimu bw’iminkanyari, hamwe na pigmentation - byubaka abaguzi mu mikorere irimo retinol.
4. Guhindura uburyo butandukanye
- Bihujwe nuburyo butandukanye bwo kuvura uruhu, harimo serumu, cream, geles, hamwe nubuvuzi bwijoro, guhuza nubwoko butandukanye bwuruhu (urugero, serumu yoroheje kuruhu rwamavuta, amavuta akungahaye kuruhu rwumye).
- Gukorana hamwe nibindi bikoresho: Guhuza aside ya hyaluronike irwanya gukama, mugihe niacinamide yongera imikorere ya barrière, bigatuma abayikora bakora ibicuruzwa byuzuye, bitera uburakari.
5. Inyungu zigihe kirekire cyubuzima bwuruhu
Kurenga kwisiga, retinol ishyigikira ubuzima bwuruhu muri rusange na:
- Gushimangira inzitizi yuruhu (mugihe, hamwe no gukoresha buri gihe) mugutezimbere ubuzima bwiza.
- Kugenzura ibikorwa bya glande sebaceous, kugabanya amavuta arenze no kugabanya ibyago byo gucika acne.
Ibipimo bya tekiniki:
| Parameter | Ibisobanuro |
|---|---|
| Inzira ya molekulari | C₂₀H₃₀O |
| Uburemere bwa molekile | 286.45 g / mol |
| Umubare CAS | 68 - 26 - 8 |
| Ubucucike | 0,954 g / cm³ |
| Isuku | ≥99.71% |
| Gukemura (25 ℃) | 57 mg / ml (198,98 mM) muri DMSO |
| Kugaragara | Umuhondo - ifu ya orange kristaline |
Porogaramu ya Rentiol
- Kurwanya gusaza serumu na cream
- Kwivuza
- Kumurika ibicuruzwa
- Kuvura acne
* Uruganda rutanga isoko
Inkunga ya tekiniki
Inkunga y'icyitegererezo
* Inkunga y'urubanza
* Inkunga ntoya
* Guhora udushya
* Inzobere mu bikoresho bifatika
* Ibigize byose birakurikiranwa
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