| Kwita ku ruhu Ibikoresho bya siyansi | Niacinamide (vitamine B3)

Niacinamide (Panacea mu isi yita ku ruhu)

Niacinamide, izwi kandi nka vitamine B3 (VB3), ni uburyo bukora bwa biologiya bwa niacin kandi buboneka cyane mu nyamaswa n'ibimera bitandukanye. Nibindi byingenzi byingenzi bya cofactors NADH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) na NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide fosifate). Hamwe no kugabanuka kwa NADH na NADPH, bakora nka coenzymes mubisubizo birenga 40 bya biohimiki kandi banakora nka antioxydants.

Mubuvuzi, ikoreshwa cyane cyane mukurinda no kuvura pellagra, stomatite, glossitis nizindi ndwara zifitanye isano.

uruhare runini
1.Uruhu rumurika no kwera

Nikotinamide irashobora kugabanya kugenzura ubwikorezi bwa melanosomes kuva melanocytes ikajya kuri keratinocytes itabujije ibikorwa bya tyrosinase cyangwa ikwirakwizwa ry'uturemangingo, bityo bikagira ingaruka ku pigmentation y'uruhu. Irashobora kandi kubangamira imikoranire hagati ya keratinocytes na melanocytes. Imiyoboro yerekana selile hagati ya selile igabanya umusaruro wa melanin. Kurundi ruhande, nicotinamide irashobora gukora kuri melanine imaze gukorwa kandi ikagabanya iyimurwa ryayo.

Ikindi gitekerezo ni uko nicotinamide ifite kandi umurimo wo kurwanya glycation, ishobora kugabanya ibara ry'umuhondo wa poroteyine nyuma ya glycation, ikazafasha mu kuzamura ibara ry'uruhu rw'amaso y'ibara ry'imboga ndetse na “abagore bafite umuhondo”.
Kwagura imyumvire

Iyo niacinamide ikoreshejwe nk'ibikoresho byera, ku gipimo cya 2% kugeza kuri 5%, byagaragaye ko ari ingirakamaro mu kuvura chloasma na hyperpigmentation iterwa n'imirasire ya ultraviolet.

2.Kurwanya gusaza, kunoza imirongo myiza (anti-free radicals)

Niacinamide irashobora gukurura synthesis ya kolagen (kongera umuvuduko nubunini bwa synthesis ya kolagen), kongera ubworoherane bwuruhu, no kugabanya kugaragara kumirongo myiza n'iminkanyari. Ifite kandi antioxydeant itesha agaciro radicals yubusa kandi igabanya umuvuduko wo gusaza kwuruhu.
Kwagura imyumvire

Ubushakashatsi bwerekanye ko gukoresha nikotinamide (ibirimo 5%) bishobora kugabanya iminkanyari, erythma, umuhondo nuduce ku ruhu rwo mu maso.

3.Sana uruhuimikorere ya bariyeri
Niacinamide gusana imikorere yinzitizi yuruhu bigaragarira cyane mubice bibiri:

Guteza imbere synthesis ya ceramide muruhu;

Kwihutisha gutandukanya selile ya keratin;
Gukoresha ingingo ya nicotinamide irashobora kongera urugero rwa acide acide na ceramide yubusa kuruhu, bigatera microcirculation muri dermis, kandi bikarinda gutakaza uruhu.

Yongera kandi intungamubiri za poroteyine (nka keratin), yongera NADPH yo mu nda (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide fosifate), kandi yihutisha itandukaniro rya keratinocyte.
Kwagura imyumvire

Ubushobozi bwo kunoza imikorere yinzitizi yuruhu twavuze haruguru bivuze ko niacinamide ifite ubushobozi bwo gutanga amazi. Ubushakashatsi buto bwerekana ko niacinamide yibanze 2% ikora neza kuruta peteroli (peteroli ya peteroli) mukugabanya gutakaza uruhu rwuruhu no kongera amazi.

Guhuza ibyiza
1. Kwera no kuvanaho kuvanga: niacinamide +retinol A.
2. Kwivanga cyane:acide hyaluronic+ squalane