Igihe gishya cyo kwera Ibikoresho: Kode ya siyansi yo kumurika uruhu
Mu nzira yo gukurikirana urumuri rwuruhu, guhanga ibintu byera ntabwo byigeze bihagarara. Ubwihindurize bwibintu byera biva muri vitamine C gakondo bikomoka ku bimera bivuka ni amateka yiterambere ryikoranabuhanga mugukurikirana ubwiza bwabantu. Iyi ngingo izacengera mubintu bizwi cyane byera byera muri iki gihe, isesengura uburyo bwabo bwo gukora, kandi itegereze ibizagerwaho mu iterambere.
1 volution Ubwihindurize bwibintu byera
Iterambere ryibintu byera byanyuze mu gusimbuka kuva muri kamere kugera kuri sintetike, hanyuma bigana ibinyabuzima. Imyiteguro ya mercure hakiri kare yagiye ikurwaho kubera uburozi, kandi gukoresha hydroquinone byari bibujijwe kubera ingaruka zishobora kubaho. Mu myaka ya za 90, vitamine C n'ibiyikomokaho byatangije ibihe bishya byo kwera. Mu kinyejana cya 21, arbutin, niacinamide isothermal kandi ikora neza yabaye rusange. Mu myaka yashize, ibinyabuzima bivamo ibinyabuzima hamwe nibikoresho bishya bya sintetike biganisha ku cyiciro gishya cya revolution yera.
Ibintu byingenzi byera byera kumasoko arimo harimo ibikomoka kuri vitamine C, niacinamide, arbutin, aside tranexamic, nibindi. Ibi bikoresho bigera ku ngaruka zera binyuze muburyo butandukanye bwibikorwa, nko guhagarika ibikorwa bya tyrosinase, guhagarika kwanduza melanine, no kwihutisha metabolisme ya melanin.
Ibyifuzo byabaguzi kubintu byera byerekana inzira zitandukanye. Isoko ryo muri Aziya rikunda ibirungo byoroheje nka arbutine nibikomoka ku bimera; Amasoko y’iburayi n’Amerika akunda ibintu bikora bifite akamaro gakomeye, nkibikomoka kuri vitamine C na niacinamide. Umutekano, gukora neza, no gutuza nibyo bintu bitatu byingenzi kubakoresha bahitamo ibicuruzwa byera.
2 、 Isesengura ryibintu bitanu bizwi cyane byera
Vitamine C n'ibiyikomokaho ni ibiti byatsi mu nganda zera. L-vitamine C nuburyo bwiza cyane, ariko ituze ni mibi. Ibikomoka kuri vitamine C glucoside na vitamine C fosifate magnesium byongera ituze kandi byoroshye kwinjizwa nuruhu. Ubushakashatsi ku mavuriro bwerekanye ko gukoresha ibicuruzwa birimo vitamine C 10% mu byumweru 12 bishobora kongera ubwiza bw’uruhu 30% kandi bikagabanya pigmentation 40%.
Niacinamide(vitamine B3) ni ikintu gishakishwa cyane nyuma yimikorere myinshi mumyaka yashize. Usibye kwera, ifite kandi ibikorwa byo kunaniza, kurwanya gusaza, hamwe ninshingano zo kunoza uruhu. Uburyo nyamukuru bwo kwera ni ukubuza ihererekanyabubasha rya melanin kuri keratinocytes. Ubushakashatsi bwerekanye ko gukoresha ibicuruzwa birimo 5% niacinamide mu byumweru 8 biteza imbere cyane uruhu rwuruhu.
Nkumuhagarariye ibintu byera byera,arbutinazwiho ibintu byoroheje kandi bifite umutekano. Igabanya umusaruro wa melanin muguhagarika ibikorwa bya tyrosinase. Ugereranije na hydroquinone, arbutine ntabwo itera kurwara uruhu cyangwa umwijima. Amavuriro yerekana ko nyuma yibyumweru 12 ukoresheje ibicuruzwa birimo arbutine 2%, impuzandengo ya pigmentation yagabanutseho 45%.
Acide Tranexamic (acide coagulation) yabanje gukoreshwa mubuvuzi nyuma iza kuvumburwa ko ifite ingaruka zera. Igabanya umusaruro wa melanin muguhagarika synthesis ya prostaglandine. Cyane cyane kibereye kuvura melasma, hamwe nubuvuzi bwiza bugera kuri 80%. Gukoresha hamwe na vitamine C birashobora gutanga ingaruka zifatika.
Ibikoresho bishya bya biotechnologiya byera nkibikomoka kuri licorice naresveratrolkwerekana icyerekezo kizaza cya tekinoroji yera. Ibi bikoresho ntabwo bigira ingaruka zikomeye zo kwera, ahubwo bifite n'ingaruka nyinshi nka antioxydeant na anti-inflammatory. Kurugero, ingaruka zo kwera ziva muri Guangguo zikubye inshuro 5 izo arbutine, kandi zirashyuha kandi zifite umutekano.
3 future Ibizaza by'ibikoresho byera
Ubushakashatsi niterambere ryibintu byera bigenda bigana neza kandi byihariye. Ikoreshwa rya tekinoroji yo gupima ituma ibisubizo byihariye byera bishoboka. Iyo usesenguye ingirabuzima fatizo zijyanye na metabolism ya melanin, hashobora gutegurwa gahunda yo kwera igamije kunoza imikorere.
Chimie yicyatsi nibikoresho bibisi birambye ninzira zingenzi ziterambere ryigihe kizaza. Gukoresha ibinyabuzima kugirango ukuremo ibintu byera byera mubihingwa na mikorobe ntabwo byangiza ibidukikije gusa kandi birambye, ahubwo binatanga ibikoresho bibisi byiza kandi byiza. Kurugero, resveratrol yakozwe ikoresheje tekinoroji ya biologiya ikora ifite isuku irenze kandi ikora neza.
Ihuriro ryibintu byera nibindi bikoresho bikora nurufunguzo rwo guhanga ibicuruzwa. Iterambere ryimikorere yibikorwa nko kwera no kurwanya gusaza, kwera no gusana birashobora guhaza ibyifuzo byabaguzi kubicuruzwa byinshi byuruhu. Ubushakashatsi bwerekanye ko guhuza vitamine C, vitamine E, na aside ferulike bishobora guteza imbere antioxydants ndetse no kwera.
Amateka yiterambere ryibintu byera ni amateka mashya ahora akurikirana umutekano nibikorwa. Kuva mubintu byambere byoroheje kugeza kuri formulaire igoye uyumunsi, kuva cyera kimwe kugeza kumikorere myinshi ikora uruhu, tekinoroji yera irimo gukorwa udushya twigeze kubaho. Mu bihe biri imbere, hamwe nogukoresha tekinoroji igezweho nka biotechnologie na nanotehnologiya, ibikoresho byera byanze bikunze bizana iterambere ryiza cyane. Mugihe uhisemo ibicuruzwa byera, abaguzi bagomba kwitondera ibintu bya siyansi, umutekano, kandi byiza, kandi bakegera ibyifuzo byera. Mugihe bakurikirana ubwiza, bagomba no kwita kubuzima bwuruhu.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Werurwe-03-2025
